This community information site 'page' that is placed up to assist you in the event that you are interested in an alternative power source and do not know where to begin. I simply seek to assist you in finding your way, be you a home owner needing a little self-sufficient power in these uncertain times, or a group of fishermen living in a coastal village who would like to invest in a community alternative power system so as to be able to freeze lobsters or fish fillets each day before sending them away to market, and to also be able to use the electricity to pump water from a well and have a light or two. The main reason for this 'Paper' is to assist you into becoming 'personally informed' and able to decide what you need and to become more self-sufficient, because electricity supplies will become more unreliable in many places and you also may live in a place where there is none available. In either event these pages will assist you in what you need to know, being the basics for an alternative power 'system' and the approximate costs involved. Pricing 1 - A 'system' can consist of as little as Aud$ 250, consisting of one truck battery and one small 20 watt solar panel, a regulator and a couple of wires connected to a single 25 watt light bulb. If the battery has a capacity of 90 amps = 60 usable* amps x 12v = 720 watts of energy = 720 divided by 25 (power consumption of 12v light bulb per hour) = 30 hours of light or, 7 hours of light using two 12v x 50 watt bulbs etc. However, your consumption must not exceed the amount your solar panel is replacing each day, and if there is only 10 hours of sun x 20 watts = 200 watts input, your 25 watt bulb could be used for 8 hours. You may of course use a larger watt solar panel, 60 or 100 watt capacity or multiples if you wish to. Note: 60 usable* amps - if you used up all the 90 amps energy in the battery each day then you would destroy the battery within a month or so. It is best to always use less than its capacity. Example, a deep cycle battery is one with 900 lives so to speak, meaning that it can be 'drained' considerably each day and not suffer as much as a normal vehicle battery but, - - - If you have a big battery storage capacity so that you never use more than 20% of its total energy stored each day, then a deep cycle battery may last you 20 + years. The same battery delivering up 80% of its capacity each day may only last you 4-6 years. 2 - A 'system' - If you wish to have a fridge, freezer, lights, washing machine, TV and computer facility or more, then a 'system' can consist of a 20 panel solar array giving 1,600 watts of energy per hour of sunlight, a 400 - 1000 watt wind turbine for the windy rainy days when there is no sun, and a 1000 amp hr x 24 v battery system having a 1,500 watt inverter to convert stored battery power into 240 v electricity. This with associated turbine tower, solar array supports etc., could cost Aud $ 25,000 or more. So it is simply a matter for you to decide how much electricity you will need to consume per day and how much 'money' you wish to spend. To run a ‘full house’ as given below one would need an average daily input of electricity of approximately 500 watts per hour or 12,000 watts per day. Fridge - freezer - washing machine - small microwave – computer – television - power tools - water pump - bread maker – lights, etc. So once you decide what you have available in funds, then a system to suit your 'coat' can be given. The following information is to assist you in your decision making, and if you wish me to supply and export any items to you then simply send a letter or an email to: Wind Turbines This article is written in an attempt to aid the home user who seeks to become self sufficient in electric power, as well as having an 'alternate' water pumping facility, and to raise self-sufficiency 'alternative power' awareness. I limit my expression to the smaller units for homes, farms and small communities. Remember, a 500 watt/hr capacity turbine will only deliver that power a 25 mph wind speed. In reality, with lower “average” daily winds it may only be “delivering” a fraction of its rated power. As all will soon see, the new way will be “Electricity” that will shunt aside all “fumes” that abide in this atmosphere as to Allah’s “clear way” all draw near. There are many of you who will ahead seek to be true, and as you land acquire you will elevate your way higher and build homes with “renewable energy” in your sight, and thus I this ”beginners” page do write. Clean & green & gold is the new way. Wind turbines are a powerful and useful part of any major home power system. For when it is night time or if it rains for a day or a week then solar panels cease their production of electrical current, but at night or in the wind and rain the wind turbine excels and it can produce a large amount of electrical energy at a far less cost that solar power. Generally speaking, for home or farm if one can afford it one would purchase a 1200 watt per hour capacity wind turbine costing around AUD (Australian) $4000, this machine would produce that amount of energy at its optimum that is attained at an approximate 25 mph wind speed. More wind speed could increase this 'wattage' by 20% or so, but if the wind was much lower at say 12 mph, then a turbine of this capacity would deliver only 400 watts of current per hour to your battery bank. Wind turbines need at least 5 mph wind to begin their generating output. A smaller 400 watt per hour capacity turbine costing AUD (Australian) $1200, also attains its capacity at approx 25 - 30 mph wind speed, but at a 12 mph wind speed it might deliver only 140 watts of current per hour. With the above in mind, it is better to opt for the larger machine if possible. The other factors of great relevance is that one needs to understand that wind is like water, in that as it 'streams' along in the sky it can be subjected to interference from the 'ground' that will cause it to slow down or to 'tumble' like water passing over rapids. This takes place in proximity to trees, homes, or other obstructions, thus it is of importance to have your machine elevated as high as possible above the ground, for the higher you go the greater the speed of the wind, and the less the machine will be subjected to turbulence that not only slows it down but also causes undue stress to its components. 25 metres is usually a good height. Calculate your daily power consumption needs against a turbine output operating at a 8metre/sec wind speed (18 mph) and you’ll be fairly “safe,” as you will have an 50% “spare” more current capacity capability to charge emptying batteries as the wind speed increases to the 10 - 14 m/s speeds, enabling the unit to give its full power output. For not only does a wind turbine or solar array need to have the “inherent” capacity to supply the never ending daily output, but if this supply need is diminished due to lack of sun or wind then the power supply “mechanism” be it the turbine or solar modules need to have a charging capacity of twice the daily input requirement so as to be able to not only continue the daily supply needs, but to also “catch up” and fill up the battery bank ready for the “next” windless days. There are many different types of wind turbines available to purchase, and some are better than others, and some are less inclined to need repair than others. The Bergey is a quality machine that is designed and manufactured by the Bergey brothers that 'developed' the Piper aircraft corporation, and their expertise has enabled them to deliver a unique, high tech, and reliable wind turbine that I believe is the best on the market today, and if you are considering a long life alternative power source then I recommend it.
Here is the Bergey Excel - 10 kw. The smaller 1000 watt Bergey XL1 is the best unit for the average family home unit, and it provides enough power for lights, radio, television, fan, water pumps, kitchen appliances, microwave oven, washing machine, fridge, freezer, fax, computer, TV satellite dish, power tools etc., an ideal homestead unit. Coupled to a 24 v battery bank and using a 24v - 240 v inverter it can run all normal 240 v appliances. All components are made from the highest quality materials to withstand long term wear and fatigue. Bergey XL.1
2.5 m (8.2 ft.) Diameter 1000 W at 11 m/s (25 mph) - peak output 1300 watts 5.2 kWh / Day Nominal A select wind generator
being an attractive, reliable
Note: As solar panels are limited to sunlight hours, it follows that wind turbines have more than twice the amount of time each day to be delivering electricity to your alternative power system. Note: Transfer of energy directly from the wind into useable mechanical power has been by the use of either 'high wind speed' torque action on 'slim' aircraft style blades generating electricity, or 'low wind speed' torque power using multiple 'broad' blades as per windmills being used mechanically to uplift and transfer water. The modern wind generator has a 'slight' windage area and thus relies on an efficient propeller design. Revolutions of 700 to 2000 rpm in the 'smaller' home power units of 300 - 2000watts output are common. They can be 'relatively' noisy as the 'tip' of the blade travels at high speed. (The tip of a 10' blade @ 900 rpm is travelling at a speed of over 300 mph). The 'modern' wind generators are designed to be most energy productive at wind speeds in the 15 - 30 mph range. Below 10 mph they produce relatively little power. At wind speeds above 35 mph they 'furl' to avoid structural damage as well as to avoid over speeding and exceeding the generator capabilities. On furling "out of wind," they will lose some of their power output. The windmill exposes a 'huge' windage area to the flow of air as the blade "area" is positioned out on the perimeter of the arc, and thus with its greater "leverage" is power 'productive' from wind speeds as low as 2 mph, but needs to 'furl' at about 18mph wind speed to avoid structural damage, and due to their need to limit the strokes/min action of the bore 'pumping' stroke they are so 'governed.' (30spm). Their maximum 'fan' revolutions at wind speed of 15 mph are about 100rpm. Thus giving a 'relatively' quiet operation in modern units. At present these low wind speed 'powerhouses' are not manufactured for electricity generation. Inverters -
True 'sine~~wave'
Inverters are appliances that “convert” DC electrical current stored in batteries as 12v or 24v or 48v DC current into 240v AC or 110v AC current for home appliances. The “form” of the electrical “wave” created in the output AC side varies with the different types of inverters manufactured. There are “square” wave and “modified” square wave and “Sine” wave inverters available. Square & modified square wave units can be safely used in many electrical appliances, e.g.; workshop tools and equipment and Tv. But any inverter that is not a “true” sine wave will damage some electrical “boards” and may “blow” fridge/freezer automatic switches over time. For any given “output” capacity, the sine wave will give a far better performance. Square waves are “rough” and “jagged” and sine waves are “smooth.” Square wave inverters cost half the price of a sine wave, and “semi” sine or “modified” square wave units about 75% of the sine wave unit. From my personal experience I can only “suggest” that you purchase a true quality sine wave inverter if you are going to “power” a computer, audio equipment, freezer etc without “worry.”
Notes on Inverters A 12v or 24v 1700w or 2000watt continuous flow inverter will power all the needs of a home ( fridge, freezer, bread baker, Tv, washing machine, computer, fax, vacuum cleaner etc). It would also run a small workshop with drill, band saw, and other tools. You can these days purchase a 12v fridge or freezer wired direct to the battery bank, this uses less power as the electricity does not go through the inverter, for there is a 20% + “loss of useable stored power” when inverting the current from 12v to 240v through an inverter. Remember, if your solar modules or wind turbine are “wired” 12v, then your inverter must also be a 12v one. If wired 24v, then the inverter must be a 24v unit. So when ordering the wind turbine or inverter you must specify as to whether the battery bank is to be 'wired' 12v or 24v. Inverter power output capacity. You will see the words “continous & surge” e.g.; 1000W continuous, this means that the amount of power the inverter can supply flowing though it from appliances on a continuous basis is 1000 watts. When electrical appliances are switched “on” there is a surge of current that may be 4 times greater for a split second than its “running” usage, thus an inverter can surge for a few minutes to accommodate this sudden temporary increase each time a freezer switches on, or you switch on the vacuum cleaner. So a 1700W inverter may have a surge capacity of 5000 Watts for a few minutes. All manufacturers give “5 minute surge capacity” & “30 minute capacity” & “continuous capacity.” *Note, “Welding off inverters is frequently done,” but it is not recommended as it can cause damage over time due to the initial “arcing.” It is better to weld directly off the battery bank using a “resistance” system to “lessen” the current flow. You can also weld direct off a large vehicle alternator. Ask your local electrician to help you with this process or surf the net for the answer. A true ~ Sine Wave ~ output allows noise free operation of appliances and audio equipment. Solar PV modules Solar modules create electricity and need light, preferably direct sunlight as they cannot operate properly if they become shaded by trees. On cloudy days they can still put out about 25% of their rated power output. Solar modules are the best solution on small home blocks. A combination of solar & wind is good, for there are times when its windy with no sun and other times when its sunny with no wind. The most common 'sizes' of solar modules are 10 watts to 100 watts per hour output. There are two 'basic' types of solar modules, the 'crystalline' silicon cells that are encapsulated behind glass, and the 'Amorphous' silicon that are 'layered' onto thin stainless steel sheets. Due to the inherent 'design' of crystalline modules, they are more subject to power loss from partial 'shading' than the amorphous ones. If an 'area' of a crystalline solar module is 'shaded' by any object such as a 'tree' or 'bird dropping' or yacht mast it will 'shut down' 50% or more of its power output, thus one must ensure that its surface is clean at all times and not shaded. If an 'area' of an amorphous solar module is 'shaded' by any object such as a 'tree' or 'bird dropping' or yacht mast it will only 'shut down' current production from that section that is shaded, thus in my mind it is a better module. Amorphous cell modules have three layers of thin silicon, each absorbing an amount of light as it filters through one layer into the next and on into the the third layer, these produce up to 20% more than their rated output current when their surface temperature exceeds 25 degrees. Crystalline cells produce up to 20% less than their rated output current when their surface temperature exceeds 25 degrees.
If you are intending to use solar modules then if you live on or near to the equator, they needs be placed flat. The modules need to be facing directly to the sun as possible so as to receive its direct sunlight input. As you travel North or South of the equator the angle of the module mounting will become greater, about 10º slope for each 10º latitude. So if you live 40º South of the equator, then the angle of the solar module support needs be at an angle of 40º from horizontal which will give the best heat absorption. (As in image above taken in Tasmania, top panels are 'amorphous' and the lower one is silica) You can affix them with a movable support so that the module angle can be lessened in summer as the sun comes more overhead, and increase the angle as the sun moves lower in the sky in winter. The above 'tracker' can be move manually twice a day for optimum energy absorption. The use of a solar tracker such as the image above that can be moved by hand will give you up to 30º more daily power output. You may wish to use an electrically controlled tracker that follows the sun or, you may wish to use a gas filled one that moves as the gas is heated by the sun and it requires no external power or, you may use no tracker and affix panels to your roof or a fixed ground stand. A 'module' may weigh about 5 kgs and put out 100 watts of power per hour. This means that it is placing 100 watts of energy into your battery to be stored for later use or present use. If you have 10 hours of sunlight @ 100 watts then one panel stores 1000 watts. This means that you could have 2 x 50 watt bulbs burning for 10 hours a day from one solar panel. If your freezer uses 500 watts per hour when running and needs to operate for 6 hours a day, then your battery bank would need to be 'fed' 500 x 6 = 3000 watts of energy from wind or solar per day for that one item. So it is quite easy to calculate how much solar or wind energy you need per day to operate any given amount of items. (Add 25% for battery & inverter losses) If you are intending to place solar modules on a new home roof, then design your home to have one side of the roof “face” towards the equator rather than East or West. This way, modules mounted directly onto the roof will always be facing the sun. If you live on or near to the equator, they needs be placed flattish.
Note:
Light energy (photons with different energy levels) is what stimulates a
solar module to produce amps. Heat energy from the sun does not improve a
solar module’s output. The stronger the light, the greater the amp flow.
Full voltage will come up with only 10% light on the UNI-Solar module. The
visible light spectrum (and part of the UV) is the light that strikes the
photovoltaic structure and creates amp flow.
The main difference between the BP module
and the UNI-SOLAR module in the first and last hours of the day is
the spectrum of light that is available. In the morning and in the
evening the sun light has to travel through more air mass and the spectrum
gets diffused, and the only real direct beam you get is more in the
blue part of the solar spectrum. Amorphous
silicon materials as used in the UNI-Solar module are very good at picking
up blue light. Crystalline materials are very
good at picking up red light.
Amorphous silicon solar cells are used in
calculators because they operate very well under low light conditions. As a
matter of fact, amorphous materials can be as much as 40% more efficient
(relatively) than crystalline materials at light levels less than 1/3rd
sun! So when one measures better performance from the UNI-SOLAR module in
the morning, this is because the UNI-SOLAR module is able to use the diffuse
and direct blue light to make amps, while the crystalline module was
receiving a relatively small amount of direct red light and was not reacting
strongly to the available, scattered (i.e. diffuse) blue light that was
available.
Note: Solar cells/ modules are all manufactured to supply a rated wattage output at 25 degrees Celsius, e.g. 75 watts output @ 25 degree temp. However, when the temperature of crystalline cells rise above 25 degrees their efficiency drops below than their rated power. When the temperature of a UNI-Solar module rises above 25 degrees their efficiency rises above their rated power. In warmer climates, the cell/module temps can rise above 55 degrees C and therefore losses or gains can be significant. Wind is also a factor, a windy area will cool the module significantly compared to still air so in windy areas, ones modules would be more efficient than hot still zones. A
Module means a group of cells held together as one. i.e. a 55 watt
module or a 75 watt module. Voc { open circuit voltage } - means; at no charging load, and this means no effort for the module to physically charge the battery. The batteries state of charge will also make a difference to the amount of energy { amps } that any module can accept charge current, half flat - lots of current, nearly full - less current. This is because it takes the module [ or any charging source ] effort to force current into the battery. The fuller the battery, the harder it is to push current through it. What needs to be understood in reference to the crystalline cells v/s the amorphous cells is that they are affected quite considerably and differently reference the actual surface temperature of the module that is much hotter than the ambient air temperature. As stated above the crystalline cells operate best in cooler conditions, whereas the amorphous are not affected by heat increases. Note: Do not forget that your battery is only 80% efficient at best and, the older they get this figure lowers and therefore losses increase. I.E. If I have used 100 amps out of my battery bank - - - then the battery bank needs (100 amps divided by .8 efficiency) = 125 amps to go back into it in order to bring back (or maintain) a full state of charge. A general rule of thumb is 75% system efficiency, this allows for battery, wiring and inverter losses. These are all BIG losses and must be accounted for if you want your system to operate adequately and to maintain a good service life. Note: The available current from any solar module can be increased slightly when one uses a Maximiser or solar boost regulator as given on page 11. ~ Deep ‘cycle’ Batteries ~ Batteries used in “remote” power systems are called “Deep cycle.” This means that they can be “cycled” deeply and not suffer damage in the way a vehicle battery would. They differ from the usual vehicle batteries in that they can withstand being “cycled” from “full to low” hundreds of times more than a vehicle battery. If a vehicle battery was “discharged” often its life would be very short. Equally, a deep cycle battery has a “shortened” life if it is left in a “flat or low” state. Flat batteries become “scaly” on the plates due to “sulphation” which over time inhibits their capacity to receive a charge. Thus if you would get a full 20 year life out of your deep cycle batteries then never leave them in a low or discharged state. Stationary deep cycle batteries may give a “false” too low reading if they are not “bubbled” regularly as the acid settles downwards and the top where you test from will be a little “weaker.” The “bubbling” that occurs also “equalises the voltage in each cell” and enables the battery to receive a full charge. To “bubble” a battery it must be full and then “boosted” up from its operational 12.7 - 14v volts to 15v or more if it is a 12v system. This is done automatically today by solar module regulators as well as by the wind turbine regulators that cut off the power supply once batteries are full to avoid battery damage. You need to have a specific gravity tester that is available from any “auto” store. It will give you a good idea as to the “state” of the available current stored in your batteries. If your charging system is too small a supply for your daily “usage,” then your batteries will never “reach” their full “state” and will suffer sulphation damage over time as they “hover” in the SG 1180 down to zero charge state. The readings are as follows: Approximate only guide to battery 'charge' state.
If you have enough batteries, i.e.: a fairly large capacity bank of 2200 Amp hours (12v or 1100 @ 24v) storage or more, then you may find that they operate in the “full down to 80% full” each day. This will give you full life on the batteries. If you operate them in the “full down to 50% full” range daily, then their life may only be 12 years. If you cycle them down to below their 50% capacity daily then their life may only be 6 years or less. You may only need a small bank of 350 Amp hours capacity depending on your daily needs. Ensure that you calculate these needs and then multiply this by 6 days usage and you will have the right battery size needed for optimum life. Batteries can be “placed” in 12v “parallel” or in “series” to give you 24v or 48v systems. Remember, that you should not charge any battery bank with more than 10% of its total capacity. Thus a 500 Amp/hour bank should not be charged at more than 50 Amps/hr. So you need to select solar/wind units that do not charge faster than that amount or you will overheat the batteries and cause damage. Ensure the water level is at least 1 cm above the battery plates. Batteries must not be filled with “distilled” water, only use “de-mineralised” water for long life operations. If you cannot obtain any due to your “situation” or “circumstance” then collect rain water direct from the sky in a clean plastic container. Deep cycle batteries will need topping up of their 'water' annually or more often in hot conditions, and also need to be kept 'on charge' if not in use for any reason, as all batteries lose a small amount of their stored energy each day. If you have a water turbine that is charging 24 hours a day then your battery bank can be much smaller. The cost of batteries is high, so just try and not “skimp” on the battery volume you buy as it is your “storage” back up. You will need a small room 3 x 2 metres or so to house your system. Batteries must be kept off the cement and preferably sitting on wood planks, and the room needs to be ventilated and shaded so that it remains cool. For if it gets hot then the battery water will evaporate more quickly. The negative side of your battery bank needs to be earthed to the ground. Either drive a 5’ long by half inch copper rod into the ground and connect a 20 mm cable to it or, if the ground is rocky then dig a shallow trench 6” deep by 6 foot long and lay an unsheathed 16 or 20 mm copper wire in it and cover it with soil and wet it for good conductivity. The section going into your battery storage room that is above ground needs to have its plastic cover on so that it does not short other wires. ~ Towers for wind turbines ~ Towers that support the wind turbines need be 'sited' well if you have a large property. Seek high ground and try and find a spot away from high trees. In any event, the top of the tower should be 10 metres above any tree top within 200 metres radius or more if possible. No tower should be of a height less than 3 x lengths of 20’ galvanised pipe = 60 feet. Towers of 80’ are probably the most common, and 100’ or more are also used. The higher you go the less 'turbulence' there is and the smoother the unit will operate and the higher the wind speed will be, and the greater will be its daily output in watts. It does not matter where you are; the 'steady' wind speed increases considerably every five metres in height. Wind gusts due to turbulence resulting from 'swirling' air masses cause great 'side' stresses and undue wear on the machine as well as lowering its charging rate. Distance from the battery compartment is an issue in the 12v systems, too thin a wire loses current on the way. If your unit is more than 30 metres from the house then a 24v system is best as the wire needed is much thinner and thus cheaper. If the turbine is going to be 70 - 300 metres away then a 110v unit is needed with a transformer to 24v fitted. All Soma 1000 have this as a standard component. Towers are usually built in 6.5metre galvanised pipe sections.* The under 10kg weight turbines can be placed on 2” galvanised pipe up to 20 metres, and 2.5” galvanised pipe for 26 metre towers. The 25 - 50kg turbines need a 3” galvanised pipe if only 20 metres and 4” if higher, and any larger 75-200kg units need a 5” galvanised pipe. Four sections of 6.5 metre lengths give you 26 metres. (80’) Note: galvanised pipe sections.* - 'Pipe' measurement is an internal diameter, whereas 'tube' is an external one. Tube walls are thinner than pipe. If a pipe measurement is given as 3" then its actual external diameter would be close to 3.5 inches. You also need 'joiners' at which lugs are fitted for the stay wires. On the 2” & 3” & 4” tube there are stays at the joint of each pipe, i.e. 4 sets of four stays for a 4 length tower. On a 5” pipe size * there is a stay bracket mounted on each 1.5 lengths or so. The joiner can be a flange threaded on the pipe end and welded. The ends are then bolted together. It may also be a 'slip in' pipe fitting 600 mm long. At the base of the tower is a base plate having a pivot facility to permit the tower to fold down, and also an attachment point for the gin-pole. The gin-pole extends out to the one stay wire attachment point that is chosen as the best to winch it from when elevating. It is used to act as a lever when raising or lowering the tower. Note: 5” pipe size * - Other than using round pipe one can also use square section steel as it is less flexible, but as it is not supplied galvanised it may require painting especially near coastal areas. page 7 Suitable for under 9 kg weight turbines
The 2” galvanised pipe x 60' tower 12"x 12"
x 10 mm base & swivel plate is grouted into a concrete plinth of 2' sq x 2'
deep.
The 2.5”
galvanised pipe x 80' tower 12"x 12" x 10 mm base &
swivel plate is grouted into a concrete plinth of 2' sq x 2' 6" deep. Suitable for under 55 kg weight turbines
The 3” galvanised pipe x 60’ tower
14" x 14" x 10 mm base and swivel plate is grouted into a concrete plinth
of 2' 6" sq x 2' deep.
The 4”
galvanised pipe x
100’
tower 18"x 18" x 10 mm
base & swivel plate is grouted into a concrete plinth of 3' sq x 3' deep. Each stay wire connector is a 5/8" x 6' length of steel with a closed and welded 'eye' situated just above the concrete, this is to be placed in line with the tower. Note: - In each of the above cases, the concrete anchor point for the wires that coincides with the end of the gin-pole needs to be 20% more in size or volume than given, this is because it has great stress imposed upon it when elevating or lowering the tower. The tower has a 'gin' pole arrangement that enables it to swivel and to be erected section by section by two persons using a 4wd vehicle or 'turfor' winch of 1.5 tons or more pull or tractor or other mechanical winch with worm gear. The stay wire needs be of 4, 6 or 8 mm diameter or more, depending on which unit you have and how high the tower you use. The turn buckles used to tighten these cables need to be the double closed eye ones that are much stronger than the open hook ended ones. Minimum size is 12 mm with larger 15 mm or more for the bigger units. A tower may cost the equivalent of 100% of the turbine cost or more. If you make it yourself it will cost much less. Note: - The above information is supplied as a guide and from my past experience. Some wind turbine manufacturers supply their own 'standards' guide and may also supply 'kits' to assist you. In the sketch below, point C is the point where the gin raising and lowering pole is fixed, and point A is the 'rear' stay point where the tower 'falls' over when it is lowered. Both points B-B are the side stay points and the stay wires remain under load during raising and lowering. Below the image it is stated that the 'eye' to which the guy wires are connected using a shackle at points B-B must be level horizontally. For if the tower swivel pin is 1" or more higher that B-B eye point, then when lowering the tower the side stays would become tight, and could cause a dangerous situation. If the tower swivel pin is 1" or more below the level of the eye bolt holes of B-B upon which the guy wire attachment swivels, then on lowering the tower the side stays will become looser. This is better than becoming tighter as long as it is not too much. Also, the same thing occurs if the line of B-B is 'ahead' of tower base centreline and thus situated one or two inches towards 'C,' on lowering the tower the guy wires would be under more tension and the tower would not 'fall' so it is best to have B-B either directly in line with tower base swivel pin or, 1" to the rear of B-B centreline towards 'A' for then as the tower is lowered the guy wires become 'slack' a little.
Note: - Try and get guy in ground 'eye' attachments of B & B level horizontally and in line with tower base swivel pin. Point A must be on the high
side of a slope and C on the low side. B & B level horizontally.
High tensile tower retaining swivel bolt is situated about 6" above cement base.
The A and B and B anchor points are all the same.
Note: Turbine towers situated within 5 km of the ocean need to use stainless steel wire cable or galvanized wire, for if you use standard steel wire rope it will rust very quickly and become dangerous. Note: The pivot pin securing the tower to the base is fixed and needs to be 'set' in concrete before the two sets of stay wire anchoring points sited either side are poured, for the attaching 'eye' in these two opposite sides of the tower that will tilt backwards when the tower is lowered or raised must have their eye centre at the same height of the swivel pin and, must also be at the same horizontal level and on a straight line through the pin hole. This is because if they were not at the same height and not in a straight line, then when trying to drop the tower the wires could become slack or worse, they would become too taught and you would have a problem. Also, if they are not in line with the tower swivel pin but are situated a few inches back towards the gin-pole anchor point, then the wire cables would also tighten when you tried to drop the tower. The gin-pole stay wire anchor point and the other opposite it may be higher or lower than the two side ones as it makes no difference to the raising or lowering of the tower. When erecting a tower on a slope, then have the gin-pole facing downhill so that the tower is lowered uphill, and the two side wire supports are on a level on either side. Note: Erecting towers must be carried out only by someone who is conversant with the process, as it is extremely dangerous if attempted without knowing the reasons 'why' it is dangerous. One reason being that as it is being elevated, the trailing set of wires are hanging loose, and as the gin-pole nears the ground, its weight may suddenly 'fall' as its 'side' effort ‘gravity’ pull weight exceeds the gravity pull of the nearly vertical tower, and if it is allowed to 'drop' this can cause the tower to jerk and buckle and fall. The last 6' or so gap between the gin-pole and the ground must be a controlled lowering as gravity takes over from the winch and it is lowered very gently to the ground. This can be done by hand with small towers and small turbines, but a 4mm safety wire rope attached to the trailing side of the tower top can be used to counteract the ‘falling’ motion of the gin-pole. The trailing wire length needs to be equivalent to the tower height less one length, and is attached to the 'second from top' wire connector. When elevated, the safety wire can be shackled to the side of the tower and tightened with a small turnbuckle. Example, before elevating the turbine a vehicle would be parked 10 metres away from the turbine and the trailing wire would have another 150’ of 10mm nylon rope attached as it would need to be long enough to ensure that the persons keeping pressure on it were standing outside the line of ‘fall’ of the turbine. It would be fed around the bumper of the vehicle, and once the turbine is nearing vertical and the end of the gin-pole is 15’ above ground, the slack is taken up so that there is some tension on the trailing side of the tower, and as the gin-pole is winched down, the safety rope is fed out but kept under pressure so that when the time comes that gravity takes effect on the gin-pole and it tries to fall down, the winch movement is halted and the safety rope is fed out slowly so that the gin-pole does not drop down suddenly and cause a catastrophe. This trailing wire rope can be left in place and used to pull the tower over backwards when next needing to lower it for any maintenance work. The tower is erected section by section, and as each is added, the wires are adjusted and it is then lowered for the next to be added. Only when all sections have been elevated and adjusted is it lowered and the actual turbine placed on it for its final elevation. The electrical wires are fed through each section as it is added, and exit at the top 1 foot below the turbine. If the tower is too high for the size of pipe diameter, then when tightening the stay wires the loading on the lower pipe could cause it to buckle and collapse. Note: The one set of tower support wires are fixed directly to the end of the gin-pole, and the gin-pole is attached to the ground anchor point with a shackle and safety bolt. This means that these wires are always fixed to the gin-pole even when raising or lowering the tower. Note: The base of the lowest pipe needs to be drilled so that an earth wire can be attached and buried in the ground as it operates as a lightening conductor. An earth wire is also clamped to each wire stay a couple of feet above the turnbuckles and also grounded. Note: The higher the tower the better off you will be, for if it is too low then even a large turbine is ineffective. If funds are the issue, then get a smaller unit onto a higher tower. Light units only need thin pipe and are thus cheaper to elevate higher. Note: When elevating each pipe section during the erection stages, the full length electric cables needed for height of tower are fed through from the bottom and clamped at the top of each section. Note: Stay wires must not be over tensioned, and if tensioned correctly at about 25kg load the longer 'upper' ones will be seen to have a slight 'droop.' Over tensioning 12 or 16 wire cables to 50 kg load would impose an added 600 to 800 kg loading upon the lower tower section and the base 'plate' assembly over and above the actual weight of the steel tower, turbine, and wires. This added weight becomes more when the wind speed increases and imposes a side force to the turbine. Note: Using tower pipe that is too thin for the loads imposed causes the lower section to 'buckle' under load and the tower falls with disastrous results.
Elevating a 1000 watt wind turbine
on 26 metre high tower. We use fixed gin poles that have swivel pins and bolted connections so that there is no possibility of failure.
11 metre gin-pole and 'Dawn' winch ~ Micro hydro ~
This micro hydro plant is 500 - 1000 watts capacity depending on water supply. As it is continuous and not reliant on wind or solar it produces enough energy to run the entire house. If you live in the Aberdares or any place where you have a 'fall' in a stream giving you a 'head' of 40' or more, then it is a very good unit that can in fact produce up to 1000 watts continuous power that is stored in batteries. price and details to soon be placed up here ~ Solar boost battery charge regulator and controller ~ Solar panels force energy into a battery, and once the battery is full the electricity supply emanating from the PV cells needs to be halted so as to not overcharge the battery. This 'control' mechanism is called a "Regulator" and there are a variety of different types. The Solar Boost regulator/controller as listed here is a unit that in fact 'boosts' the available solar panel (PV) watts to the battery. How Does Solar Boost Increase Charge Current? A photovoltaic (PV) array is a constant current device. As shown on a typical PV panel voltage-current curve, current remains relatively constant over a wide range of voltage. A typical 75 watt panel delivers 4.45 amps @ 17 volts. Traditional PV controllers connect the PV array directly to the battery when the battery is discharged. When this 75 watt panel is connected
directly to a battery charging at 12 volts, the PV panel still provides about
the same current. But, because PV output voltage is lower, it can only deliver
53 watts to the battery. This wastes a whopping 22 watts or nearly 30% of the
available power! The full 75 watts delivered at 12
volts would produce a current of 6.25 amps. A charge current increase of 1.8
amps or 40% is achieved by converting the 22 watts that would have been wasted
into useable charge current. This example assumes 100% efficiency to illustrate
the principal of operation. Actual boost will be less as some power is lost in
wiring, connections, fuses and in Solar Boost 50. What you can be sure of is that Solar Boost will deliver the highest charge current possible for a given set of operating conditions. When conditions are such that extra power is not available from the PV array, Solar Boost will operate as a high performance series pass PWM controller. Solar Boost charge controllers available are: 25 amps (12V only) -
Price Australian AUD$ 590 =
(US$ 448) add freight ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The following are general information letters written by me that will also assist thee. ~ Community Welfare ~ To: Rod Smith. General
Manager, Business Tasmania. For a truthful Audit I give my plaudit, but I wonder if any will “see” the raw base reality of what it is I say reference “What is soon coming our way.” All Systems shut down, and every “home” falls down, and around and around will all go and higher and higher will the insanity flow. It’s truly the time to take stock of the reasons for the fast emptying “Chrissy sock” that has been plundered for so long that neither the plunderer nor the plundered can see that it is wrong to upturn people and their pockets via taxes shake. So my recommendation is for all Systems “men” to put on the brake ref their needs. The “outgoings” could “fill” an ocean and make a hill. Any “Director of operations” today must take a huge drop in pay. Let all public servants now work from their heart, for soon their “pockets” will be torn apart. “Where” do the billions go that into Tasmania flow ? Is it to pay the wages of “supposed” sages ? Or are we just over supplied by “helpers” who say the public need them as a “spiritual guide”? Or are the community “members” yet babes in the wood who “think” they must be looked after from the cradle to the grave and expect you to them save ? I believe that each community needs call for diplomatic immunity and thus no more taxes pay. Only give 10 % of their profits to an elected group who will allocate them “away.” Let each community pay for its own hospital or shop. Its own school and teachers or we’ll all just flop. Scrap the “Unions of disunion.” Let none now off any demand, for that is a negative reprimand. Let all now seek Allah’s Wisdom from above ref the spiritual cleansing and rising insanity and the reason for the need to ONLY LOVE. If you look into the facts, you will see that in every way governments have intruded into the private sector by justifying the “opening” of businesses. Meaning, that in almost every arena, be it from publishing to translating services to management strategies etc, the “State” employees are paid wages by the public and then the public are charged a “fee + profit” for the service provided. This is over and above the “usual” licensing costs that should cover wages. So you see, this is thievery. I wonder if it is “visible” to your eyes or whether it has gone on for so long that it has become a normal practice. ie: Your State budget “book” is printed by a “department” whose wages are paid for by the community. The book should thus be made available at its cost of $ 5, not $ 50. ~ Environment & Industry ~ All industries affect the environment in many ways. The endeavors of man are to create “things” or “happenings” to which all can and do relate to by need. In the present time this “issue” forth from mans expression has been controlled by “inner” emotions of greed and indeed all such “Industry” has been abused from external influences such as regulatory control, manipulation and monetary extortion. All this has had a denigratory effect on the manufacturing costs and subsequent marketing value and has resulted in “workers” in many countries being exploited and used as “slaves.” The “added” annual wage rises and production costs due to materials and “fees” and “Union” demands etc, has also contributed to diminishing profit margins that have caused a lack of funds that affect the “maintenance” of good practice and conditions and has also led to multitudes of “closures” planetarily. Prior to this “time,” all governments gained control planetarily of supposedly non profit community State enterprises and “converted” them into profit making businesses which were used to “fund” other endeavours by borrowing against the assets of |
